The vineyards of Banyuls-sur-Mer often appear in stories about landscape and tradition, but Domaine Berta-Maillol offers something more specific: a case study in how staying in place can become its own form of authorship. This essay traces the family’s work from the 17th century to the present, examining the relationship between steep terraces, cultural stewardship, and wines shaped by physical effort. It’s about inheritance, yes, but also about maintenance — the work required not just to hold on to land, but to remain answerable to it.
220. Domaine Berta-Maillol
The vineyards of Banyuls-sur-Mer often appear in stories about landscape and tradition, but Domaine Berta-Maillol offers something more specific: a case study in how staying in place can become its own form of authorship. This essay traces the family’s work from the 17th century to the present, examining the relationship between steep terraces, cultural stewardship, and wines shaped by physical effort. It’s about inheritance, yes, but also about maintenance — the work required not just to hold on to land, but to remain answerable to it.